Product Junkie Rehab

The year was 2007 and I decided to go natural (again…no really this time it’s real).  First item on the hair journey agenda is to decide to chop or transition.  Hmmm.  Transition, it is.

Next item on the agenda is to decide how I will style my hair.  Straight styles for starters then all coils on display once 100% natural.  Now the big decision…what products should I use?

No doubt, I have spent $100s on hair products since 2007.  I have tried shampoos, conditioners, leave-in conditioners, oils, and pomades.  I tried inexpensive products and “This product is way too expensive!  I’ll take two, please.” products.  Needless to say, I acquired quite a collection of half empty bottles.

The results from my quest for the perfect product varied.  Some didn’t work at all.  Some worked for a while then stopped working.  Some worked but the ingredients gave me the blues.  After much frustration and the ever-decreasing space in my pantry, I decided I had to make a change.  It was time for product junkie rehab.

I cleared my cupboards of all of the off-the-shelf products that I had purchased over the years.  Then I headed over to Google to research the science of hair.  There had to be a reason why some products worked well and some did not work at all.

I will not delve too deeply into the science of hair in this post (besides, kimmaytube explains it much better) but I will advise that you learn YOUR hair.  Everyone’s hair is different so products may have different results.  The product junkie rehab is a 4-step process:

  1. Analyze your hair’s characteristics (texture, porosity, elasticity and density)
    Hair FollicleDetermine your hair type by visiting Naturally Curly and selecting the hair type that best describes your strands.  Keep in mind that you could fall into more than one category.  As for me, my hair has a tighter curl pattern around the nape of my neck.Porosity is the ability of the hair to absorb and retain moisture. To determine your hair’s porosity level, visit Naturally Curly.Elasticity is the ability of your hair to stretch and then return to its original length without breaking.  To determine your hair’s elasticity level, visit Live Curly, Live Free.
  2. Analyze your environment (humidity, dewpoint, ambient air temperature, wind chill, heat index)
  3. Learn more about product ingredients
    EWG’s Skin Deep Cosmetic Database is an excellent source for learning more about product ingredients.  Simply read the label on your product bottle (easier said then done, right?) and plug the ingredient into the search box.  My mantra is to stay as close to nature as possible.
  4. Choose products based upon your hair needs
    Now that you know about YOUR hair, it’s time to select your products wisely.  Speak with a well-trained stylist about recommendations for your hair characteristics.  If you are quite the brave one, mix your own products in your kitchen.  Either way, make sure the product is customized for YOUR hair.

*DEEP SIGH* So with all of that said, you are well on your way to kicking that pesky (and expensive) product junkie habit.  Good luck!

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Moisturize…Lubricate…Repeat

Moisturize...Lubricate...Repeat

Moisturize...Lubricate...Repeat

How many times have you said, “My afro-textured hair is so dry?”  Have you ever wondered just how oils and water help “moisturize” your hair?

First, let’s explore the definition of moisturizer and lubrication. According to Wikipedia (don’t judge me…LOL):

Moisturizers (pronounced /ˈmɔɪs.tʃə.raɪz.ərz/) or moisturisers (see spelling differences; also emollients, pronounced /iˈmɒliənts/) are complex mixtures of chemical agents specially designed to make the external layers of the skin (epidermis) softer and more pliable, by increasing its hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation.

Moisturizer increases the water content in the hair.  This provides hydration.  Lubrication, on the other hand, is the application of an oily or greasy production in hopes of diminishing friction.  Notice that moisturizers are water-based and lubricants are oil-based.

There are many popular additives used as moisturizers for hair including aloe vera gel and good old fashion H2O.  When choosing a moisturizer, it is a good idea to stay as close to nature as possible.  Pay close attention to how much water the hair contains before adding more moisturizer.  Adding too much moisturizer can make the hair weak.

Lubricants include waxes, creams and oils.  When using a lubricant, it is a good idea to stay as close to nature as possible.  Excellent, lightweight lubricants include coconut oil, grapeseed oil, beeswax and jojoba oil.  All in all, any plant-based oil is a great natural lubricant for the hair.  Mineral oil and petroleum-based products should be avoided, if possible.  Mineral oil and petroleum-based products creates a thin barrier on the skin and hair.  It clogs pores reducing the body’s natural ability to produce oils.  It also repels water making it more difficult for moisturizers to penetrate.  Adding too much lubricant can weight the hair down.  Be sure to use a clarifying shampoo to remove excess lubricants.

When do you moisturize?  When do you lubricate?  In my opinion, the hair should be moisturized daily.  Spritzing on a pH-balanced leave-in condition as needed throughout the day helps fight off dry, brittle hair.  Lubricants should only be applied after moisturizing.  This helps lock in the moisture and protect hair against friction and breakage.  Use moisturizers and lubricants in moderation.  Too much of either could cause hair damage.

Whether you are cleansing or styling your hair, the mantra should be “Moisturize…Lubricate…Repeat!”  Say it with me.  “Moisturize…Lubricate…Repeat!”

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Dr. Bronner’s Soap – The Many Uses

Dr. Bronner's Liquid Soap

Dr. Bronner's Liquid Soap

In the event of rising grocery prices and a tough economy, many people are looking for ways to make their dollar stretch.  In addition, more people are concerned about the environment and are becoming more “green” in their approach to beauty and cleaning products.

Fortunately, Dr. Bronner’s is both affordable and all-natural.  It can serve as a base for a myriad of cleaning and beauty products.  Check out the recipes below to save green while being green.

CREAMY SOFT SCRUBBER

Pour 1/2 cup of baking soda into a bowl, and add enough Dr. Bronner’s soap to make a texture‐like frosting. Scoop the mixture onto a sponge, and wash the surface. This is the perfect recipe for cleaning the bathtub because it rinses easily and doesn’t leave grit.

Note: Add 1 teaspoon of vegetable glycerin to the mixture and store in a sealed glass jar, to keep the product moist.  Otherwise just make as much as you need at a time.

WINDOW CLEANER

1/4‐1/2 teaspoon Dr. Bronner’s soap
3 tablespoons vinegar
2 cups water
Spray bottle

Put all the ingredients into a spray bottle, shake it up a bit, and use as you would a commercial brand. The soap in this recipe is important. It cuts the wax residue from the commercial brands you might have used in the past.

OVEN CLEANER

1 cup or more baking soda
water
A squirt or two of Dr. Bronner’s soap

Sprinkle water generously over the bottom of the oven, then cover the grime with enough baking soda that the surface is totally white.  Sprinkle some more water over the top. Let the mixture set overnight. You can easily wipe up the grease the next morning because the grime will have loosened. When you have cleaned up the worst of the mess, dab a bit of liquid detergent or soap on a sponge, and wash the remaining residue from the oven.

ALL‐PURPOSE SPRAY CLEANER

1/2 teaspoon washing soda
A dab of Dr. Bronner’s soap
2 cups hot tap water

Combine the ingredients in a spray bottle and shake until the washing soda has dissolved. Apply and wipe off with a sponge or rag.

FACIAL/BODY CLEANSER

1 part Dr. Bronner’s soap
1 part distilled water

HAND CLEANSER

8 oz of Dr. Bronner’s soap
10 drops tea tree oil

This recipe is great at cleansing while killing germs.

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Hair Story: Lita D.

What is your name?
Lita D.

How long have you been natural?

I have been transitioning for almost 8 months now.

If you could dedicate one song to your hair, what would it be?

A song for my hair and hair journey would be “Survivor” by Destiny’s Child.

What method did you use to go natural (gradually grew out relaxer, big chop, etc)?

Initially I chose to gradually grow out my relaxer; however, it became difficult to manage the 2 different textures without applying lots and lots of heat on a daily basis, which is not healthy for my natural hair. Also, after much research and reading about other people’s natural hair journeys, there seems to be a general consensus that your natural hair will grow faster without the damaged relaxed ends. So, I’ve decided that on my birthday, in two weeks, I am going to BC. I feel like I owe it to my hair to set it free!

What has been the feedback from your family, friends, and strangers?

Generally the feedback from family, friends, and coworkers has been pretty positive. The only one I’m having trouble with is my mother. At first she said, “You just don’t look like yourself.” My rebuttal was, “This “new me” is the real me. That other chick was just someone I put on to go to work.” Mother is coming around though. My sister (who is relaxed) is proud of me and will be going with me to the salon when I BC. My dad is a little confused, but supportive. My Caucasian coworkers are fascinated and always want to touch my hair and ask lots of questions. I have found that most of them have no clue that most African American women don’t have naturally straight hair because they mostly see us with relaxed hair. Needless to say there has been several long educational black hair chats at the water cooler.

What are your hair goals?

My hair goal is to grow my hair down to waist length. There is a common misconception that Black women cannot grow long healthy hair. I want other African Americans to see that we can, in fact, grow and maintain long hair. I hope to also be an inspiration to little girls who have been brainwashed by society (and their busy mothers who relax the hair because they don’t have time to nurture their natural hair) to believe that relaxed hair is “better” than their natural, beautiful, coily locks of hair.

What is your current hair routine?

For the last 2 weeks I have been transitioning with Kinky Twists. My goal was to keep them in for a month but I’m not sure if I can make it that long. I just want to be free!! Before the Twists, my hair routine was as follows: Wash day is Friday. I use Cantu Shea Butter Shampoo and rinse out Conditioner. Before I put on the conditioner, I also add odorless garlic gel to my roots to help prevent excessive shedding. I place a shower cap on and usually leave the conditioner and garlic in for at least 20 minutes before rinsing. Then I do a hot oil treatment with either castor oil or coconut oil. I put a shower cap on and let the oil sit for 30 minutes, then I rinse, but not too much because I want some of the oil to stay in my hair. The last step before I style is a homemade leave-in conditioner that is properly PH balanced for hair. The protective style that I have chosen to transition with is a Bantu Knot-Out. It is quick and easy and gives the illusion of a fully natural kinky head of hair. (So I cheated a little….Big deal!)

What are some struggles that you have with your hair?

The main struggle I have with my hair is thinning in the front and near the crown area. I actually have a dime sized bald spot on the top of my head that I didn’t know I had until I got braids. This is unacceptable people!! This smooth little patch makes me even more determined to BC ASAP! As far as styling, I have found that my relaxed ends take longer to air dry than my natural roots. That sort of puts a kink (pun intended) in my plans in the morning when I undo my Bantu Knots to reveal damp limp ends. Solution: sit under the hair dryer for a while instead of air drying completely.

Who is your hair muse (the person you refer to for hair inspiration)?

My hair muse is a young woman on YouTube who calls herself KimmayTube. She grew her hair waist length. If she can do it, so can I! Another hair muse is a good friend of mine from college. Her shoulder length hair is simply beautiful and all natural. We have the same texture hair and she always wears the cutest styles!

What are your favorite hair products and techniques?

Since I am transitioning and am not fully natural I haven’t had a full-on product trial and error period. So far I’ve only used the Cantu Shea Butter Products. However, once I BC I will try the Giovanni products and will no long be using a sulfate based shampoo. I have learned a lot about the importance of using PH balanced products so once I start my full fledge product experimenting I will purchase PH strips and be sure to test products for proper PH levels before I use them on my hair.

What advice would you give to those who are or wish to transition to natural hair?

Do your RESEARCH! YouTube is the greatest, free, natural hair resource out there. It’s a great tool to learn from other people’s mistakes and successes.

The 3 main ingredients for successful natural hair growth and maintaining length are Moisture, Protective Styling, and PATIENCE! It is a journey, remember that.

LISTEN to your hair! Pay close attention to your hair like never before. It will tell you what it needs, and when it does, research and find the best solution.

What goes in your mouth comes out of the top of your head! Learn about what foods are good for healthy hair growth.

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Hair Story: Ganae Brandon

What is your name (as you would like it appear in the blog)?
Ganae Brandon

How long have you been natural?
For about 3 wks now. I’ve gone natural twice in the past but this is the shortest my hair has ever been.

If you could dedicate one song to your hair, what would it be?
India Arie’s “I am not my hair”

What method did you use to go natural (gradually grew out relaxer, big chop, etc)?
Big chop.

What has been the feedback from your family, friends, and strangers?
I hear, “I love your hair!”, “you are so beautiful”, “that’s my favorite hair style on you”, “you have the perfect head for that cut.” Lol

What are your hair goals?
I don’t really have any hair goals. My hair is an extension of me. Its how I express my feelings. Being bold enough to be different because I am not like everybody else.

What is your current hair routine?
My hair gets washed like every other day. So making sure it is well moisturized is a must. As well as brushing it in the morning & at nite before I wrap it up.

What are some struggles that you have with your hair?
I currently don’t have any struggles as of now. In the past it has been being patient enough with it when it won’t do what I want it to do.

Who is your hair muse (the person you refer to for hair inspiration)?
Me

What are your favorite hair products and techniques?
Right now Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey & Avons dry scalp moisturizing shampoo.

What advice would you give to those who are or wish to transition to natural hair?
If you want to go natural you’re just going to have to go on the edge of the cliff & jump. Figure out a doable plan & run with it. To me natural hair is liberating & brings forth a type freedom of artist expression.

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